… and Lived to Tell the Tale

Santa Ana Volcano

If you’re planning a trip to El Salvador, hiking Santa Ana Volcano (aka Volcán Ilamatepec) should be at the top. It’s the tallest volcano in the country, standing at 2,381 meters (7,812 ft) and it rewards you with a view that looks like a painting: a turquoise crater lake that shimmers inside the caldera.

It last erupted in 2005 and it’s still active, so get going. Don’t worry, it’s well-monitored and the hike is very popular with both locals and international travelers.

The Climb: Pain, Regret and Inner Strength

I got picked up by a driver arranged through my hostel in Santa Ana. We drove about 45 minutes to the trailhead in Los Volcanes National Park. At the base, I met a few other hikers , our guides arrived and we started the journey up.

I felt great for the first 20 minutes. After that, every step felt like regret and excitement were battling it out. My brain couldn’t decide if I was having fun, just quietly panicking or in need of assistance.

Then it hit me. The altitude, the heat and the dust all teamed up against me. My chest was burning and I swear I couldn’t get enough oxygen into my lungs. My legs were giving up on me. I wasn’t alone though, other hikers were struggling too. Some turned back at the halfway point, but not me. I was ready to cry my way to the top if that’s what it took. At one point, I honestly couldn’t tell if I needed water, a bench, or to lie flat and roll off the trail. The other slow walkers and I tried to distract each other with friendly conversation. It worked, for a little while.

The Summit: Foggy Crater and Surprise Ice Cream

When we finally reached the crater, it was completely covered in fog. You couldn’t see more than 10 feet ahead. It was actually kind of funny, this was my first time hiking a volcano and I had no idea what to expect. I pictured something fiery and red. Instead, I was just staring into a thick white cloud. I could feel the stunning view hiding behind the mist, almost taunting us.

We sat. We waited and after about 10 minutes, the clouds shifted…….and there it was.

A bright turquoise-blue crater lake, resting inside jagged rock walls. It honestly looked like someone colored it in with a Crayola crayon. I just stood there in silence, soaking it in.

While we were waiting around there was a local vendor at the crater, selling ice cream out of a cooler. Yes, ice cream, at the top of a volcano. I bought one immediately. I knew it would soothe my soul and help me forget the misery of getting up there. He even offered to take my photo since I was traveling solo. For that kindness, I bought a second one for the hike back down. Worth it.

The Mid-Hike Mood Board (Aka My Emotions)

• Stage 1: “I’m tired! Geez”
• Stage 2: “I can’t breathe, what’s happening”
• Stage 3: “Catching my breathe… almost there”
• Stage 4: “Where did this fog come from. Please leave!”
• Stage 5: “This is amazing”

At the summit of Santa Ana Volcano, El Salvador

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How to Get to Santa Ana Volcano from Santa Ana

Getting to the volcano is part of the adventure and you’ve got options depending on your time, budget and patience level:

1. Take the Local Bus (Budget Win)
Hop on the Ruta 248 bus from Santa Ana to Cerro Verde National Park. It usually leaves between 7:15 and 7:30 a.m., costs under $1 USD and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. It’s slow and bumpy, but it’s authentic and scenic.

2. Grab a Shared Taxi or Private Ride
If you’re not vibing with the early morning bus or just want something quicker, many hostels can arrange private transport. It’s way faster and you’ll be dropped off right by the hike entrance. Great if you’re short on sleep or traveling with friends.

3. Book a Guided Tour
Want zero stress? Book a guided tour. It often includes hotel pickup, park fees, and even lunch with a volcano view at Lago de Coatepeque. Perfect if you want to show up and let someone else handle the logistics.

Heads up: You must hike with a guide. You can either join a group at the park entrance or book one ahead of time.

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