Brazil: Graffiti Stories, Night Buses & Samba Nights

Copacabana Beach. | GoPetranelle

Quick Trip Details

Duration: 6 days
Route: São Paulo → Rio de Janeiro
Flights: NYC → São Paulo (GRU)
Intercity Transport: Overnight lie-flat bus (highly recommend)


Day 1 — São Paulo Solo Travel: Arrival, Graffiti Tour & City First Impressions

I landed in São Paulo early and headed straight to H4 La Residence Paulista, where I stayed for a few days. The hotel is located in Jardins, a leafy and polished neighbourhood just off Paulista Avenue. It feels slightly tourist-oriented, but in a comfortable way, with cafés on nearly every corner, boutique hotels tucked into quiet streets and locals walking their dogs as if it were a competitive sport. The pace feels intentional rather than rushed.

After checking in and getting ready to head out, I realised something important. I had forgotten my portable charger at home. It is the kind of mistake that hits hardest on the first day of a solo trip, when your phone serves as your map, camera, translator and safety net. Not ideal, but manageable.

Once I freshened up, I sat down for a moment and reviewed my plans, trying to decide what I realistically had the energy for after the flight. That was when I noticed a graffiti and street culture walking tour starting shortly nearby. Vila Madalena Graffiti & Street Art Walking Tour

I had never done a graffiti tour before but I told myself to give it a try. If I did not enjoy it, I could always leave. More than anything, I wanted to understand why so many buildings in São Paulo were covered from top to bottom in graffiti. Entire façades were layered with symbols, lettering and styles I could not immediately decode.

The tour completely reframed how I saw the city and mu idea of Graffiti.

Our guide explained the roots of Pixo, São Paulo’s distinctive graffiti style and how it is connected to Afro-Brazilian resistance, class divisions and visibility in a city that has historically overlooked certain communities. What initially felt chaotic began to feel deeply intentional.

He also shared the story of Nego Vila, a beloved graffiti artist who was killed during the pandemic. His murals still remain across the city, watching over it as living memories preserved in spray paint.

During the walk, they also spoke openly about how racism and colourism remain deeply embedded in Brazilian society. I was taken aback by how few people of colour I noticed in São Paulo at first. I wondered whether it was because it was a Sunday and many people were indoors, but the conversation helped me understand that what I was observing was only the surface of a far more complex reality.

I also learned that São Paulo is considered the tech capital of Brazil, which made the contrast even sharper, with innovation rising alongside unresolved social divides.

I ended the day strolling along Paulista Avenue, iced coffee in hand. A small note of advice: do not order iced coffee in Brazil. I spent some time people-watching and letting the city reveal itself without forcing an impression.

By 5 p.m., the lack of sleep finally caught up with me. It was time to order dinner, conserve what little battery I had left and let the day settle.

Day 2 — Exploring São Paulo’s Old Town and Making Unexpected Connections

The next morning, I joined an Old Town walking tour in São Paulo, this was the history lesson I had been looking for.

We learned how different groups arrived in Brazil over time. Italians, Portuguese and others all came seeking opportunity, ownership and influence. Each group brought their own ideas, design styles and cultural traditions, shaping the city into what it is today.

In many ways, São Paulo feels distinctly European. You see it in the architecture, the layout of certain streets and even in the rhythm of daily life. As we walked through the historic center, we stopped in front of old buildings that once housed the most powerful people of their time. If those walls could talk, they would tell stories of decisions that shaped the country.

Today, many of these buildings serve new purposes. Some are libraries, others are cultural centers or historical institutions. The power has shifted, but the weight of history remains.

What truly made the day memorable, though, was the people.

Our group included a climate activist who looked like she would happily hug a tree or camp out for a week if it meant getting her message across, a guy from Turkey wearing an outfit covered in Thai elephants, his clothing clearly doing its own international tour, and a mix of solo travelers who arrived as strangers and slowly became a group.

Later that afternoon, I spent hours talking with two Brazilian guys who were funny, warm, and full of stories. What made it even more amusing was that they had joined an English-speaking tour. They were learning about São Paulo right alongside us.

Moments like that are why solo travel rarely stays solo for long.

That evening, I changed my bus ticket to an earlier departure, packed up my things and got ready to leave the city. Rio was calling. And I was about to step straight into a dream.

Day 3 — Lie-Flat Bus from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro & First Night Energy

I originally planned to fly to Rio. That was before I discovered that Brazil has lie-flat buses. Not reclining seats. Fully lie-flat. A travel concept I am now completely committed to.

Booking the ticket was not seamless. Brazilian booking sites repeatedly asked for a CPF identification number, which tourists do not have. Thankfully, Busbud saved the day. I booked a morning departure, boarded the bus, settled into my flat seat, wrapped myself in the provided blanket and fell asleep almost instantly.

🚌 Book a Lie-Flat Bus in Brazil

The journey itself felt like slow luxury. Rolling green hills passed by the window, small towns appeared and disappeared and cattle dotted the landscape. It was calm, quiet and surprisingly restorative. Travelling between two major cities has never felt so peaceful.

By the time we arrived in Rio de Janeiro, I felt rested, centered and ready. I ordered an Uber and headed straight to El Misti Hostel Ipanema.

This hostel deserves its own moment. El Misti is not for the weak.

Every single day there was something happening. Yacht parties that started at 11 p.m. Favela parties. Sunset beach meet-ups. Even a 2 a.m. hike to watch the sunrise. Activities ran daily and this was my first time staying in a hostel with a group chat, where no one was left out. It genuinely felt like a community. The staff and guests truly wanted you to have fun.

That said, a public service announcement is necessary. If you require eight hours of uninterrupted sleep, this is not the place for you. When the party starts at 11 p.m. and people return around 5 a.m., the doors, conversations and energy continue well into the early morning. You get the idea.

After settling in, I freshened up and got ready for my evening plans. Samba class, followed by a bit of window shopping to ease into Rio de Janerio.

Night — Samba Class & Girls’ Night Out in Ipanema

I arrived at the samba class alone and left with two British girls, heading to dinner while laughing uncontrollably about our dancing shortcomings.

My first night in Rio officially began at Samba Fit, it was sweaty, chaotic and joyful in the best way. Everyone was smiling, laughing and fully in the moment.

Our instructor, Gaby, brought the perfect balance of structure and fun. She broke down the basic samba steps slowly, helped us find the rhythm and made sure no one felt left behind. By the end of the hour, we were dancing a full routine, mistakes and all and celebrating every small win.

After class, dinner turned into stories, jokes and the beginning of an unplanned travel moment.

If you want a deeper look at this experience, I shared a full review of the Samba Fit class in Ipanema, including what to expect, the vibe inside the studio and why it’s beginner-friendly:

💃 Read My Full Rio Samba Class Review

Day 4 — Rio de Janeiro City Tour: Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf & Iconic Landmarks

I booked a full-day city tour through the hotel front desk and our guide’s name was Wesley, something I only officially realized at the end of the tour.

To be fair, he kept referring to us as “Wesley’s group” all day. Somehow, my brain never registered that as his actual name. When I finally mentioned it, we both laughed. What a shame, really, because he was an excellent guide.

Wesley struck the perfect balance between humour, history and that firm travel-guide energy of “we’re not leaving until you get the photo.” Exactly what you want on a day like this.

Sugarloaf Mountain & Christ the Redeemer

Our first major stops were Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer and this is where Rio truly starts to feel unreal.

Sugarloaf delivered sweeping views of the coastline, with the city stretching endlessly below. One of those moments where you stop talking, stop moving and simply take it all in.

Christ the Redeemer came next. Seeing it in person, after years of seeing it on television and in photos, felt surreal. I had waited a long time for that moment. There were a lot of tourists, yes, but even through the crowds, the experience felt wonderful

Iconic for a reason.

Maracanã Stadium & The Sambadrome

We passed by Maracanã Stadium, viewing it from the outside while Wesley shared stories about its history and cultural importance to Brazil.

Next was the Sambadrome and this stop really stayed with me. The main avenue is designed to resemble a woman lying on the beach, with the road forming her legs. Once you see it, you cannot unsee it.

What also clicked for me in that moment was the comparison to Trinidad’s Socadrome, a Carnival parade stage, but Rio’s Sambadrome is on a completely different scale. Trinidad’s feels like a walk in the park in comparison.

Lunch, Cathedrals & the Selarón Steps

Lunch was included in the tour at Gusta, which was a welcome pause in a full day. A chance to sit, refuel and reset before continuing.

Afterwards, we visited a striking modern cathedral, dramatic and geometric, standing in sharp contrast to the older colonial buildings we had seen earlier.

Then came the Selarón Steps, one of my favorite stops of the day. If you have seen the Pharrell and Snoop Dogg music video ‘Beautiful‘, you already know the steps. Seeing them in person felt surreal.

I spotted a unique souvenir there, a ceramic tile printed with my photo. It felt like the perfect way to remember the trip, so I bought it without hesitation.

Day 5 — Rocinha Favela Tour: A Look Beyond the Postcard

The experience did not feel intimidating or heavy to me. Rocinha felt active and functional, with people going about their daily routines as businesses operated naturally within the neighborhood.

At the cultural center, Portal Joana’s Brasil, we were offered a history lesson about Rocinha and its relationship to Rio’s city center, followed by time to take in the view from above. It reminded me of areas back home in Trinidad with similar histories, where community life continues alongside challenge, resilience and pride.

You can see more about the cultural center here:
Portal Joana’s Brasil on Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/portaljoanasbrasil

Day 6 — A Soft Life Beach Morning, A Cultural Walk & An Unexpected Goodbye

The night before, I checked out of the hostel and moved to CLH Suites Domingos Ferreira, knowing I needed proper rest. I woke up early, packed my bags and headed straight to Copacabana Beach before checkout.

The morning was quiet and gentle. I sat by the shore, sipping fresh juice, letting the breeze do its thing and fully leaning into the soft life. Rio’s beaches are not just places to swim. They are cultural spaces, moods, identities all rolled into one.

And then, right in front of me, something unexpected happened.

Let me paint the scene.

There was a very handsome man swimming confidently with flippers, moving in and out of the waves with ease. I later realized he was connected to the group that owned the beach chairs in the section where I was sitting. He was an excellent swimmer, completely at home in the water, even as the waves looked rough.

As I sat there reflecting on my year and watching the ocean, I noticed a woman and a man further out at sea. I remember thinking they must be strong swimmers because the current looked intense. Something felt off, so I kept watching.

Within seconds, the situation changed.

The woman was caught in the current and unable to get back. The man with her was trying desperately to pull her forward but was clearly struggling. Almost immediately, the swimmer I had been watching sprinted from his group, dove into the water and swam straight towards them.

Everyone on the beach went silent.

He reached them quickly and managed to guide them back safely. The woman was shaken but okay. Lifeguards were nearby, but he was simply closer and acted without hesitation. It felt like a real-life Baywatch moment, unfolding quietly and fast.

Afterwards, the beach slowly returned to normal. I stayed for a bit longer, reflecting, before heading back to the hotel to check out.

From there, I moved to my final stay, Residencial Santa Teresa, a guesthouse tucked into the hills of Santa Teresa, within walking distance of the Escadaria Selarón. I dropped my bags and headed out again, this time joining a central Rio walking tour.

We explored historic plazas, old theatres, and grand buildings that tell the deeper story of the city. Rio may be famous for its beaches, but its architecture and history deserve just as much attention.

That night, I was meant to join a dance-and-drink pub crawl in Lapa, the full nightlife fantasy. But once again, the rain had other plans. The event was cancelled. So I packed up one last time, as I was heading back to São Paulo the next morning for my flight to NYC.

On my final day, I met up with the tour guide from the cancelled Lapa experience. She felt genuinely bad about the cancellation, so we went shopping instead, which honestly turned out to be the perfect, relaxed ending to the trip.

This was the experience I had booked:
Rio: Dance Classes Inside the Club & Fun Pub Crawl in Lapa

Final Thoughts on Brazil

Brazil was vibrant, layered and full of contrast.

Between a graffiti lesson, a samba class, and a lie-flat bus ride across the country, I found myself slowing down, observing more, and truly settling into the experience. The food, the beaches, the history, the people — Brazil gives generously.

Would I go back?
Absolutely.

There are still chapters waiting to be explored.



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